Camping: Kenyan Style

     Camping in Kenya might seem like a terrifying idea. Flimsy pop up tents in the wide open plains just hoping that the maneating lions of Tsavo don't get hungry anytime soon. In reality though it was a really swell time, and surprisingly more glamorous than camping in the USA.

The night started around 6pm with a tuktuk (a 3 wheeled motor-contraption or auto-rickshaw) ride about 20 minutes outside of the city. Now, 20 minutes outside of the city might not seem like much, at home 20 minutes doesn't even get you out of the suburbs, but in Kenya 20 minutes is enough to take you from the hustle and bustle of city life to some of the most beautiful land it has ever been my pleasure to see.

We arrived at the Savannah campsite just in time to see the sunset over the great rift valley and take a small dusk-time hike. My excitement for the night was growing to the point of over flowing and we had only been there for half an hour. From the hike we walked to our tents and inspected our sleeping quarters. Again, pleasant surprises awaited us. Heavy duty semi-permanent tents, with electricity and probably the coziest bed I have ever seen in Africa... this was my kind of camping.

After a while the bonfire got started, and who doesn't love a good bonfire? We sat around the fire and popped open some beers and let the stress of the week wash away from us. It took no time at all to fall into the rhythm of friendly small talk between the six of us. We learned that some Kenyans (even quite educated ones) have never heard of McDonalds, and tried to convince the campsite employees to invest in s'mores to attract rich wazungu. The dinner we had was out of this world. Nyama choma should always be prepared by Maasai men. We had both fried and grilled meat along with potatoes and, of course, ugali.

As the evening grew colder it was so nice to relax in good company and enjoy the fire. There is no where else in the world I would have wished myself in that moment. Passing a bottle of cheap wine around the fire in the most stunning countryside, looking at the night sky and seeing more stars than I knew possible. The sky is unarguably brighter here and it brightens me along with it. By the time we were cold and tired and ready for bed Liana, Ana and I wandered back to our tent, pulled the covers over our heads and were asleep before the fire died down.

We woke up this morning nursing our hangovers with overly acidic instant coffee and crisp morning air. We didn't know it yet, but the fun was far from over. When breakfast was served we were shocked. The average breakfast in Kenya is a piece of bread with chai tea. Our morning meal was a feast in comparison. Bananas, watermelon, bread and butter and boiled eggs paired with tea, coffee, or hot chocolate. And more than enough of all of it. Choices! It was really great and just what was needed after the night before.


After we had refueled Ian, our guide, came by and asked us if we were ready for the big hike. We hesitated and he sensed our concerned. He promised us a good time and in the end how could we deny? We hiked through the valley and soon as the hike started we were happy we had come. Ian took us to a waterfall that had long since dried up, and we rested for a while, someone had the sense to ask, "now we head back?" And Ian laughed, "Now we go up," he said pointing to the rock wall ahead of us. It took us a short time to realize he was serious. Well... when in Kenya right? He scurried up the wall like a pro and we followed one by one wondering what the hell we were doing. If we slipped it was into the muddy bacteria filled water we would fall. In the end it wasn't so bad, and only a taste of the rock climbing we would do just a little later. We hiked over rocks the size of cars. Everything around was so green, and you can see for miles and miles. Standing there looking around at the beauty this place has to offer is so refreshing. Eventually Ian told us it was time to go up again and this time we were not so sure. The fall was bigger this time and no water to break your tumble. I am sure this is the kind of thing one would require equipment for in the states, but if Maasai people have been doing it for hundreds of years it must be possible. I refused to look down as I climined and shinnied up the rocks and sat with my butt planted firmly on the ground when I made it to the top.

When we made it back to camp we heard some of the most magical  words one can utter in Kenya... 'hot showers.' Of course we were all on board, even if we were to be putting dirty clothes right back onto our clean bodies. I feel like it might be a bit sacrilegious to say the water spoke to me... but that's not far off. Being the first proper shower I have had since I returned to Kenya it is needless to say that it was a glorious experience.

When we were all clean we assured our hosts that we would return just as soon as possible and said our goodbyes. We caught a tuktuk back to Ngong,. Now, at 6 o'clock I am already in my PJs prepared for a simple night at home and hopefully some movies with snacks.