Today I visited the second largest slum in the world, Kibera. Before I ever set foot on Kenyan soil a visit to Kibera was an experience I wanted to make sure that I had. Somehow the experience has eluded me.. until today that is.
Even having been to slums before, Kibera was quite a shock. I have heard horror stories about Kibera, about the size, the spaces so tight you have to turn sideways to fit through them, the danger and filth. However, upon arriving there I found that it was nothing like I was expecting. There were really bad things that I had not prepared myself for, but at the same time there were some really nice things about the place that I found astonishing. Before I give my personal interpretation of the place though, let me give you some facts...
Kibera is known for being the largest slum in Africa, and the second largest in the world. The population is a very argued point considering it is nearly impossible to tally all of the residents at any one time. Estimates are between 800,000 and 3,000,000. Obviously there is a huge difference in these numbers, and as far as I can tell the most accurate number is somewhere around one million. One million people living in poverty in 2.5 km (1.5 square miles) of land. The homes in Kibera are built mostly from mud and timber, also constructed sometimes with concrete in the mix and finished with tin roofs. Built on 10x10 plots the homes are densely packed into the area with an average occupancy of five. The electricity in Kibera is shotty at best (and generally stolen) with some areas having no access to electricity at all. Running water in Kibera is nonexistent, and this means no sewage to speak of. There is a trench that runs freely next to the homes, eating places, and schools filled waste of every type. The toilets are privately owned by landlords (before you continue reading please read that statement again. And then once more). And if you hope to use one then you must be willing to cough up about 5 cents for each time you potty. That's right, you pay to use a toilet in an area where most people can't afford food. Due to this unfortunate situation the people of Kibera have invented something called, "flying toilets." Curious? Basically, you do your business in a bag, and then toss it out the window into the street. Hygienic, no? I think it is also important to mention that until recently the Kenyan government refused to recognize the slum and it's many inhabitants sitting on their doorsteps, a mere 5 miles outside of Nairobi center.
With the lack of sanitation, the flying toilets, and filthy water running under your feet at all times you can imagine the disease that runs rampant through the community. Outbreaks of cholera and typhoid are common place, and stagnant water breeds malaria carrying mosquitoes. In an area so tightly packed the diseases spread like wild fire, leaving many children not to see their 5th birthdays. The positive HIV rate in Kibera is a shocking 20% and since prostitution is one of the easiest forms for many young women to make a buck this too spreads easily. The going rate on a lay in Kibera is just 10 shillings (cheaper than an apple), and due to copious cases of prostitution and rape the majority of pregnancies in the slum are unwanted, leading to dangerous abortion acts.
Now that I have given you some facts to mull over I will let you know a little more about my experience. As I said before, I have always wanted to visit the area., and I am so happy I did. I found some of the sights horrifying, but I also found some of them quite hopeful. As we walked through the streets with our guides (you can't fathom the maze this place can be) we were talked to by everyone; some welcoming us with a smile and a friendly "karibu" and others shaking fists and asking why we kept coming here. The main roads were large enough for a group of 6 to walk down and lined with food shops and people selling CDs just like any other part of the country, only their conditions were not as lucky as everyone else's. The smaller alley ways of the area were slippery under my feet and a fall would have resulted in me either grabbing for a sharp and rusty tin roof or falling into the questionable substances. The allies, lined with people's homes, were so small we had to walk in a single file line and were able to reach out and touch a front door on opposite sides with each hand. Being this close together does nothing if not build a tight sense of community and it was tangible as we made our way around. For most of the residents this is the only life they have ever known, being born and raised in Kibera has made it their home. At the rate the slum is going it will take hundreds of years for the people to disperse into other established areas of Kenya, and while this is heartbreaking I feel like the residents of Kibera would rather be in it together than elsewhere without people who have lived the plight they have.
